Sunscreen part 1: Basics

Halo, selamat siang. Di hari yang super cerah ini, kayaknya pas banget kalau saya ngebikin postingan soal sunscreen.  Kenapa sih saya bikin postingan soal ini? Maksudnya  untuk mengingatkan diri saya sendiri, sekaligus mungkin ada yang cari info soal sunscreen ini he he he.. (deuhh Ge Er amat)

Nggak bisa disangkal kalo kita emang tinggal di negara tropis yang masyarakatnya pasti banyak terpapar sinar matahari. Naa, supaya kulit kita enggak cepat rusak (baca: penuaan dini) akibat pajanan sinar matahari, kulit yang terekspos langsung sinar matahari mesti pakai sunscreen.
Seri sunscreen  di blog ini mudah-mudahan ada manfaat nya sebagai buyer’s guide atau info mengenai kesehatan kulit..
BAHAN AKTIF SUNSCREEN
Secara umum, bahan sunscreen ada yang bersifat:
1.  fisik (physical sunscreen)
  • Bekerja dengan mendefleksi sinar matahari, mirip kayak genteng yang menangkis cahaya dari rumah.
  • Bahannya inert alias tidak terurai jika dipakai. Karenanya, bahan inilah yang paling aman buat anak-anak dan ibu hamil.
  • Bahan physical sunscreen cuman ada 2, yaitu  adalah Titanium oxide dan Zinc oxide.
  • Kekurangan physical sunscreen: biasanya memberi efek cling putih alias white cast kalau dipake. Kalau kulit kamu gelap kayak sayahhhh.. ini ganggu banget kalau dipakai di wajah!
2. kimia (chemical sunscreen)     
  • Sunscreen jenis ini bekerja dengan membentuk reaksi kimia pada kulit, lalu menyerap sinar matahari. Jadi, perlu waku untuk bahan-bahan chemical sunscreen bereaksi dengan kulit sampai benar2 efektif.
  • Selain efeknya menjaga kulit kita dari paparan sinar matahari, ternyata sebagian kecil.. saya tekankan sebagian kecil bahan chemical sunscreen ini ada yang diserap oleh tubuh. Dan, ada juga jenis chemical sunscreen yang diketahui menyebabkan gangguan hormonal pada hewan percobaan.
  • Chemical sunscreen nggak dianjurkan untuk anak <2tahun!
  • Chemical sunscreen relatif lebih sering menimbulkan reaksi pada kulit. Relative, is the keyword here.
  • Bahan chemical sunscreen ya selain Titanium oxide dan Zinc oxide tadi. Buanyak jenisnya.. coba liat tabeltable di bawah.
Next question: siapa sih yang meregulasi sunscreen ini?
Tiap negara sih sih biasanya ada regulator. Terus terang saya kalau googling “BP-POM tabir surya” belum nemu  hehehe, jadi ya.. saya ambil dari regulasi yang sudah jelas aja, antara lain:
1. Amerika serikat: FDA (Food and Drug Administration). Saat ini mereka merekomendasikan bahan-bahan berikut sebagai sunscreen

Sumber: uspharmacist.com
Kalau dilihat, memang bahan aktif sunscreen yang di approve oleh FDA cuma sedikit. Kenapa? Karena proses regulasi di Amerika  ketat banget; tapi ya kekurangannya kalau ada bahan baru yang lebih bagus dan aman, mereka rada telat juga jadinya. Tapi.. saat ini FDA juga tengah memproses beberapa bahan sunscreen baru untuk approval.
2. Uni Eropa

   sumber: ups.acs.org
3. Australia: Department of Health di section “Therapeutic Goods Administrations”.

Table 3. Permitted active ingredients for therapeutic sunscreens.
Australian Approved Name (AAN) Synonyms, Abbreviations, Trade Names,
CAS Number
Maximum Concentration (w/w)
Bemotrizinol
[= INN]
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenol triazine [= INCI name]
Bemotrizinolum
Escalol S
Tinosorb S
CAS No: 187393-00-6
10%
Benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid
[= INCI name]
alpha-(2-Oxoborn-3-ylidene)toluene-4-sulphonic acid
Meroxyl SL
CAS No: 56039-58-8
6%
Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane
[= INCI name]
BMDM
4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxy dibenzoylmethane
1-(4 tert butylphenyl)-3(4-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione
Avobenzone [= INN]
CAS No: 70356-09-1
5%
Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate
[= INCI name]
N,N,N-Trimethyl-4-(oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)anilinium methyl sulfate
Meroxyl SO
CAS No: 52793-97-2
6%
Cinoxate
[= INN and INCI name]
2-Ethoxyethyl para-methoxycinnamate
CAS No: 104-28-9
6%
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
[= INCI name]
Benzoic acid, 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]-hexyl ester
Uvinul A Plus
CAS No: 302776-68-7
10%
Dioxybenzone
[= INN]
Benzophenone 8 [= INCI name]
CAS No: 131-53-3
3%
Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate
[= INN and INCI name]
1H-Benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, 2,2′-(1,4-phenylene)bis-, disodium salt
Bisimidazylate
Neo Heliopan AP
CAS No: 180898-37-7
10%
Drometrizole trisiloxane
[= INCI name]
2-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]-disiloxanyl]-propyl- phenol
Silatrizole
Mexoryl XL
CAS No: 155633-54-8
15%
Ecamsule
[= INN and INCI name]
Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
Mexoryl SX
CAS No: 90457-82-2; 92761-26-7
10%
Homosalate
[= INN and INCI name]
Homomenthyl salicylate
3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate
CAS No: 118-56-9
15%
Isoamyl methoxy-cinnamate
Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate [= INCI name]
Isoamyl-4-methoxycinnamate
Isopentenyl-4-methoxycinnamate
Amiloxate [= INN]
CAS No: 71617-10-2
10%
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor
[= INCI name]
3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor
Enzacamene [= INN]
CAS No: 36861-47-9; 38102-62-4
4%
Menthyl anthranilate
[= INCI name]
Menthyl 2-aminobenzoate
5-Methyl-2-(1-methylethyl) cyclohexanol-2-aminobenzoate
Meradimate [= INN]
CAS No: 134-09-8
5%
Methylene bis-benzo-triazolyl-tetramethyl-butylphenol
[= INCI name]
2,2′-Methylene-bis-6-(2H-benzotriazol-2yl)-4-(tetramethyl-butyl)-1,1,3,3-phenol
Bisoctrizole [= INN]
Tinosorb M
CAS No: 103597-45-1
10%
Octocrylene
[= INCI name]
Octocrilene [= INN]
2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl ester
2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3 diphenylacrylate
Uvinul N
CAS No: 6197-30-4
10%
Octyl methoxy-cinnamate
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate [= INCI name]
Octinoxate [= INN]
Uvinul MC
CAS No: 5466-77-3
10%
Octyl salicylate
Ethylhexyl salicylate [= INCI name]
2-Ethylhexyl salicylate
Octisalate [= INN]
CAS No: 118-60-5
5%
Octyl triazone
Ethylhexyl triazone [= INCI name]
2,4,6-Trianalino-(p-Carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1’oxy)-1,3,5-triazine
Uvinul T
CAS No: 88122-99-0
5%
Oxybenzone
[= INN]
Benzophenone 3 [= INCI name]
2-Benzoyl-5-methoxyphenol
Uvinul M
CAS No: 131-57-7
10%
Padimate O
[= INN]
Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA [= INCI name]
2-Ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate
Octyl dimethyl PABA
CAS No: 21245-02-3; 58817-05-3
8%
PEG-25 PABA
[= INCI name]
Ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate
PEG25 PABA
Uvinul P
CAS No: 113010-52-9; 116242-27-4
10%
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
[= INCI name]
2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid
2-Phenyl-5-sulfobenzimidazole
Ensulizole [= INN]
CAS No: 27503-81-7
4%
Polysilicone-15
[= INCI name]
Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate
Diethylbezylidene malonate dimethicone
Diethylmalonylbenzylidene oxypropene dimethicone
Parsol SLX
CAS No: 207574-74-1
10%
Sulisobenzone
[= INN]
Benzophenone 4 [= INCI name]
5-Benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzene sulphonic acid
Uvinul MS
CAS No: 4065-45-6
10%
Sulisobenzone sodium
[= INN]
Benzophenone 5 [= INCI name]
5-Benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzene sulphonic acid, sodium salt
CAS No: 6628-37-1
10%
Titanium dioxide
[= INN and INCI name]
E171
CAS No: 13463-67-7
25%
Triethanolamine salicylate
TEA-salicylate [= INCI name]
Trolamine salicylate [= INN]
CAS No: 2174-16-5
12%
Zinc oxide
[= INN and INCI name]
Pigment white 4
CAS No: 1314-13-2
No limit
Sumber: https://www.tga.gov.au/publication/australian-regulatory-guidelines-sunscreens-args

Nahh, sekian dull posting sunscreen part 1 saya. Kali ini sih intinya selintas mengenal sunscreen dan bahan-bahannya. Next posting, adalah mengenai keamanan sunscreen..

Until later!

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